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EDUN

Video Nicole Mackinlay Hahn

Music by Walter Kitundu          

 

Fashion with a Conscience

Human rights activist and music icon, Bono has been very outspoken about Poverty, Third World Debt Relief, Fair Trade and Aids.  In 2005 he was nominated for a Nobel Peace Prize.  His wife, Ali Hewson is a mother of four and a dedicated environmental activist, and most recently, a fashion designer.  Her natural feminine beauty is reflected in the clothing line - EDUN - that she has introduced with Bono and Rogan Gregory.  The collection echoes a  "return to nature" infused with a luminous edge.

In 1985, Bono and Ali Hewson traveled to Ethiopia and worked at an orphanage writing songs and plays to teach the children about basic health and hygiene. They witnessed extreme poverty first hand.  The following year, they went to Nicaragua and El Salvador as those countries were dealing with political uprisings and war.  In the early 90s, Bono and Ali organized a publicity stunt with Greenpeace where they donned radiation suits to protest Sellafield nuclear power plant's building of THORP, where nuclear waste from all over of the world is collected.  Sellafield is also known to dump waste water into the Irish Sea.  In 93, Ali went to Belarus to participate in the creation of "Black Wind, White Land", an award winning documentary that detailed life in Belarus in the years following the catastrophic devastation at the Chernobyl nuclear reactor.  She became a committed patron of the Chernobyl Children's Project (founded by Adi Roche); an Irish charity that raises money for needed operations as well helps to find adoptive homes for the children affected by the disaster. In '96 Ali led a convoy of 34 ambulances and trucks loaded with 2 million pounds of equipment and medicine for the victims of Chernobyl.  The UN has estimated that at least nine million people were affected in Belarus in some way by the blast and Ukrainian officials say that 125,000 have already died. 

Hip downtown New York fashion designer Rogan Gregory is best known for his multi-hued triple needle stitched jeans.  He has been making organically produced clothing under his own labels which include Loomstate, Rogan and A Litl Betr.  His artisinal approach to design includes abrading the fabrics and exposing the yarn character; similar to exposing the grain in wood.  He is also a sculptor and the head designer for "Rogan Objects" which is a collection of chairs, tables and lighting.  The beautifully handcrafted minimalist pieces incorporate recycled industrial materials while emphasizing their aesthetic qualities.  

It was synchronicity when they met.  Bono and Ali Hewson partnered with Rogan Gregory in June of 2005 to launch their socially conscious contemporary casual wear label EDUN.  The company's aim was to set an ethical example in promoting humanitarian causes in the fashion industry, long known for exploiting child labor.  EDUN created sustainable employment in developing countries by establishing ethically run factories in countries like Tunisia and Peru.  The company grew out of a desire to shift the focus away from aid in the developing world, particularly Africa, and to help bring about commerce and trade and to empower these laborers with dignity and pride.

"We wanted to show that you can make a for-profit business where everybody in the chain is treated well," explains Ali Hewson. The brand's motto, "We carry the story of the people who make our clothes around with us" is a reminder of the awareness that they hope to extend to their customers.  The men's and women's collection consists of organic materials treated in cool jeans-wear; with 100% organic cotton printed t-shirts, fitted jackets; chiffon dresses, sexy minis and beautiful feminine tops.  What a lovely concept; consumers can buy EDUN and not only look beautiful, but also know that their simple gesture is helping to make a difference in the poverty in Africa and elsewhere. 

Prices range from $50-$300 and is available at Selfridges, Harrods (England), Brown Thomas (Ireland), Holt Renfrew (Canada) and El Corte Ingles (Spain), Beams, Club 21 and Isetan (Japan) and Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys, Nordstrom and Fred Segal (US) as well as selected specialty stores worldwide.

 
Elizabeth McKenzie:  Rogan Gregory, the company's designer, is also a sculptor and furniture maker.  His background in fine art distinguishes him from many other designers; how has this experience influenced his design approach, techniques, style, etc.?
Bridget Russo:  Rogan takes a more architectural approach to fashion, concentrating more on the materials used, washing techniques and overall garment structure and texture.
EM:  What architect(s) in particular have influenced Rogan the most?
BR:  Isamu Noguchi
 

 

 

 

EM:   Ali Hewson and Bono's concept - "Beauty of Compassion" as a selling point for the EDUN collection is very interesting.  What kind of affect do they wish to have by targeting the consumer's consciousness?

BR:  Consumers today are more conscious about their purchases. They are informed and are beginning to ask the right questions... where are these clothes made, who's making them and how are those individuals being treated?  If price and design are equal the more conscious consumer is likely to select the more socially responsible product.  It's beauty on the outside AND inside.  Clothing that looks good that you can feel good wearing.
 
EM:  Has there been a noticeably different affect in the US versus other countries where the collection is sold?

BR:  It's too soon to tell.  At this point everyone has been very supportive and we have key retail partners in major cities around the world.
 

 

 

 

 

EM:  The inconspicuous mantra inscribed in the pocket of every pair of EDUN's jeans states that "We carry the story of the people who make our clothes around with us". Do you think this level of awareness has made other designers feel uncomfortable about their own manufacturing practices?

BR:  I don't think so and of course there would be no way of us knowing for sure.

Ultimately EDUN exists to help raise awareness within the industry and hopefully encourage others to follow suit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

EM:  Are you aware of any the other fashion houses that have adopted similar free trade methods?

BR:  "Sustainable Fashion" seems to be a hot topic these days, but there have been companies out there doing this for some time - Timberland and Patagonia for instance. In addition, there are others who have more recently joined the fold, such has Katherine Hamnett and American Apparel. The fact that it's more visible is great, let's hope that the trend becomes a standard way of doing business.

EM:  The fashion industry has a frenzied pace and it can be a challenge when it comes to producing the collections and runway shows.  Rogan designs the "EDUN" collection, the "rogan" line, "A Litl Betr" line and his eponymous furniture line; how does he manage all of these responsibilities and what does he do to unwind from all of the stress?
BR:  He surfs.  He as a strong team behind him.
 
 

 

 

 
EM:  I especially like some of Rogan's "message tees"; does he do these to project his own awareness and views of global issues to the public?
 
BR:  It's his own personal humor.

EM:  What music do you listen to at your showroom?

BR:  Indie rock mainly and some electro rock.

 

Bridget Russo,  Communications Director, EDUN

 

 

 
EDUN Spring / Summer 2006
 
Quiet Rivers:
A continuation of Spring 2005, EDUN's first delivery is a return to nature stemming from the subtle blossoming of the first flowers of spring in pale colors of nature coupled with earth tones.  We transition with subtle bleeds of fabrications and colors from Fall 05 with a twist on traditional 'opulent' fabrications brought down to earth through fluid combinations and cuts.    The classic Terra Khaki is the basis of the palette with Earth-rose, Earth-clay and Sulfur Green found in the first blooms, which dot sun-drenched landscapes following into evening and the glow of summer bonfires on the beach. For Spring 06, EDUN expands the elegant blouse and jacket category with fabrics that are 'rich in nature' and earthy in tones reminiscent of desert flora and fauna.  The Morning Glory Print is a signature this season with quiet watercolor pencil drawings of flowers printed on silk for blouses and dresses.  The EDUN Damask fabric is a subtle mix of earth tones and oversized florals.  The Desert Stripe canvas is a twist on the traditional railroad stripe cut into modern, fitted jackets. Details like the miniature gold chain link at the back of each top at a classic touch of feminine in a discrete manner.
 
Through the Looking Glass:
For second delivery EDUN returns to the age of innocence with bursts of color, taking inspiration from the mystical story of Alice in Wonderland.  Everything seen through the looking glass is slightly askew.  Traditional stripes meet cabbage rose garden florals for both men's and women's.  Alice's iconic blue dress and stiff white peter pan collar becomes the basis for various blues with shots of yellow.  Traditional blue toned mini stripe yarn dyes and oxfords adorn shirts paired with tailored jackets accented with gold buttons.   EDUN's silk chiffon teardrop lily print is a classic art nouveau pattern, which you might find on a wall in Alice's tale. Military jackets are realized in canvas with a touch of gold in a traditional schoolboy blazer cut in rigid denim.  The 'Hummingbird Yellow" double coated cotton trench is a key item in this delivery - both regal and classic.
 
Fair-light:
Third delivery brings in a bit of fantasy for summer with stretches of white and bright colors diffused through a hazy, sun-drenched lens.  Fair-light introduces blue, green and violet into surreal versions of pastels. Cut into sheer cottons with a slight sheen and set against white these easy summer pieces seem effortlessly light.

 

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