“Why are Buffalo wings called Buffalo wings?” asked a nameless, slightly-stoned college sophomore for the six millionth time in the history of slightly-stoned college sophomores. “Are they made from, like, buffalo...s?”
No. Of course they aren’t. Please, let all buffalo meat queries cease here. Buffalo wings are chicken wings tossed in Buffalo sauce. That sauce is called Buffalo sauce because it was invented in Buffalo, New York. And I recently went there to find the best Buffalo wing in the city.
Buffalo is not one of the country’s health food capitals. It is known for Buffalo wings, roast beef and horseradish sandwiches (called a Beef on Weck), charcoal-grilled hot dogs, and as I learned from Buffalo’s more outspoken residents, pizza. I’m still not sure that I believe that. There’s only one city in New York I trust for pizza. But I admire Buffalo’s commitment to anti-health foods, and showing up there to overdose on one of the greatest finger foods of all time felt right. So after a couple cheap beers at The Old Pink (a truly world class dive bar, which deserves its own article) and a long night of sleep, I did.
What makes the perfect Buffalo wing? Here’s what I was looking for:
The Chicken
A jumbo wing is not a good Buffalo wing. Neither is a tiny wing. For the right ratio of skin to sauce to meat, you want a medium-sized wing. The meat itself should never be dry. This is dark meat chicken we’re talking about. Tender is the name of the game.
The Skin
If you take a bite of a chicken wing, and all of the skin pulls off in one gummy piece, something is wrong. The skin on a perfect Buffalo wing should be crispy, not gummy, and you should be able to tear off a bite without the rest of the skin coming off. Emphasis on crispy. A good Buffalo wing is deep-fried, not baked. If something is deep-fried, I’m expecting a crispy exterior. Anything less is suspect.
The Sauce
No one has ever called a Buffalo wing clean. They are inherently messy, covered in a near-neon orange sauce that makes them so delectable. It’s the sauce, for the most part, that sets apart a good wing from a great one. The sauce is the first thing you taste when you eat a wing, and a truly top-notch Buffalo sauce should be balanced.